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Sequence
of the Tet Celebration
Preparation.
During the week before Tet, some families visit the graves of
parents and grandparents. Fresh earth is placed on top, weeds
removed from around it and incense is burnt to invoke the souls of
the dead from the other world to return to visit the family home.
The Kitchen God (Ong Tao or Mandarin
Tao) is also called the Hearth God, the Stove God or the Household
God. This god who was privy to the family’s most private business
and intimate secrets for the ending year, returns to Heaven to make
his report to the Jade Emperor. This report includes the year’s
activities of the household in which he has lived. On the 23rd
day of the 12th month, a farewell and thank you dinner is
given to the Kitchen God by the household. The Kitchen God will need
a week for his mission to Heaven.
Folklore has made the spirit of the
hearth into a picturesque character, a buffoon who is the butt of
crude jokes. Although he is a messenger of the Jade Emperor in
Heaven, he is depicted as so poor as to be unable to afford much
clothing. He wears an important mandarin hat but goes about with
bare legs because he has scorched his pants in the hearth fire.
Another version tells that he was in such a rush to get back to
Heaven that he forgot his pants and ascended in only his underwear.
Efforts must be made to put him in a proper mood to secure a
favorable report to the Jade Emperor of the family’s activities.
Offerings are made to him. These gifts certainly aim at influencing
the outcome of the report. But no one considers such gifts to be
crass bribery. Such pleasantries merely sweeten the god’s way, as
perhaps cookies placed by the fireplace will please Santa Claus, who
might be tired from delivering so many gifts on Christmas night.
The
paper carps, horses and clothing (hats, robes and boots) will be
burned by the family and thus transformed into a spiritual essence
usable by Ong Tao in the world beyond. Like Santa Claus, the Kitchen
God is loved and respected. Both have the capacity to bring fortune
and happiness into the home depending on the previous year’s
behavior. Although beliefs about the Kitchen God have changed over
the years, he remains an important figure in the rich texture of
Vietnamese New Year. The Kitchen God travels on the back of a
brightly colored and powerful paper horse or sometimes a grand bird
with great wings, such as a crane. Or he might ride on a carp with
golden scales. Paper images of these vehicles are purchased at Tet
or a living specimen of fish is bought and later set free. The day
of his departure is marked by the calls of fishmongers from the
countryside carrying baskets of fish hanging from their shoulder
poles and calling "Fish for sale, fine mounts for the Household
Gods to make their ride!" Live fish held in tanks of water and
plastic bags are released into ponds, lakes, rivers and streams to
impress the god with the kindness of the household. In Hanoi, the
Sword Lake is a favorite spot for releasing Ong Tao’s
fish-vehicle. In some cases, three fish are released to account for
the possibility that one must please all three Hearth Gods.
Most frequently we hear of only the
Kitchen God, but many legends support the trinity of Kitchen Gods.
Ong Tao represents the blending of all three.
In the old days, and still in some
countryside homes, cooking occurs over clay tripods. Three stones
were all that was needed to hold up the pot over the fire. Few
people spend time thinking about the nature of the Kitchen Gods or
the specific meaning of the items that are associated with them. The
three Hearth Gods are represented at Tet by three hats and shops
sell sets of three miniature paper hats: two men’s hats and one
woman’s. These are burned as offerings to Ong Tao. The God will
also need a new pair of boots to wear as he travels to Heaven. Two
favorite gifts for the triad of household deities are gold and wine.
In the central part of Vietnam,
cooking tripods or blocks that make up the family hearth, even if
they are still usable, are ritually discarded when the God leaves.
One week later, new blocks will greet his return or the arrival of
his replacement assigned by the Jade Emperor.
After the Kitchen God has left,
preparations for the New Year festivities begin in earnest. The week
before New Year’s Eve is a period of Tat Nien. Tat Nien (literally
meaning the end or ‘to extinguish the year’) is the celebration
of the last session of a period, such as the last class of school,
the last bus home, the last day in the office, even the last bath,
all with parties and great ceremony. There is a festive holiday
atmosphere before New Year’s Eve with dragon dances.
Some
families set up a Tet tree in the week before New Year’s Eve. The
Tet tree called cay neu, is a bamboo pole stripped of most of its
leaves except for a bunch at the very top. The Tet tree has Taoist
origins and holds talismanic objects that clang in the breeze to
attract good spirits and repel evil ones. On the very top, they
frequently place a paper symbol of yin and yang, the two principal
forces of the universe. Sometimes a colorful paper carp flag will
fly from the top. The carp (or sometimes a horse) is the vehicle on
which the Hearth God travels to make his report. This tree is more
common in the countryside now than in the city. It is ceremonially
removed after the seventh day of Tet.
Sweeping and scrubbing is done in
advance as tradition discourages cleaning during the holiday itself.
During this time, shops and restaurants close while the cleaning
spree proceeds in earnest. On hands and knees, the floors will be
scrubbed; bronze will be polished to a brand new finish. Closets
will be ransacked for old clothes to be tossed out. Shoppers swarm
the streets at temporary Tet stalls that have sprung up, lit with
tiny gaily-flashing lights. Everything needed for the celebration
from food to decorations is at hand and in abundance at these Tet
markets.
Two items required for the proper
enjoyment of Tet are flowering branches and the kumquat bush. For
the sale of these and other flowers and plants, a lively flower
market is held in the center of the ancient quarter of Hanoi on Hang
Luoc Street. A massive flower market was organized on Nguyen Hue
Street in Ho Chi Minh City and attracts crowds who walk up and down
the street admiring the flowers, meeting old friends and making new
ones. However, this was moved out of the center in 1996. Throughout
the country on bicycles of roving vendors, flowers create great
splashes of color. In the south, the bright golden yellow branches
of the mai apricot are seen everywhere. In the north, the soft
rose-colored dao peach flowers decorate homes and offices. A truck
driver will adorn his truck with a dao branch to cheer him on a
long-distance run.
Miniature
kumquat bushes about two or three feet tall are carefully selected
and prominently displayed. To carefully choose a kumquat bush, the
buyer must pay attention to the symmetrical shape, to the leaves and
to the color and shape of the fruit. The bushes have been precisely
pruned to display ripe deep orange fruits with smooth clear thin
skin shining like little suns or gold coins on the first day. Other
fruits must still be green to ripen later. This represents the wish
that wealth will come to you now and in the future. The leaves must
be thick and dark green with some light green sprouts. The fruits
represent the grandparents, the flowers represent parents, the buds
represent children and the light green leaves represent
grandchildren. The tree thus symbolizes many generations. Guests
will caress the light green leaves about to sprout and compliment
the discerning host who chose so carefully. The Sino-Viet
pronunciation of the word for orange sounds like the word for wealth
and the tangerines signify good luck.
Crowds of shoppers at the markets
become thicker and more frantic each night, holding up traffic as
they jostle each other to reach the counters with the best buys.
Prices are a bit higher, but then thriftiness is not considered a
virtue at Tet. Everyone is wishing each other Chuc Mung Nam Moi!
One must purchase the sugared fruits,
banh chung and the colorful decorations before the afternoon of Tet.
While shoppers roam the streets, banh
chung patties wrapped in leaves are steaming in giant vats. The
outside has taken on a lovely light green tinge after being boiled
inside a wrapper of leaves. Banh chung in the north is a square
patty measuring seven inches and two inches thick, filled with
shreds of fatty pork surrounded by a dense mixture of sticky rice
and mashed ground green beans. In the south, a similar dish is
cylindrical. It is given as a gift at this time of year and has a
similar long life and social significance as the western Christmas
fruitcake. These are frequently called sticky rice cakes, but are
unlike sweet cakes in the western sense. There is however, a sweet
version made without meat but with sugar added called banh ngot
(sweet rice patty).
Suddenly,
as if by command of some magic wand, the spree of activity, the
light, the noise, all vanishes. By early evening, markets and shops
are abandoned. Shops, stalls and restaurants are locked leaving a
notice hung on the door announcing the date of reopening. Special
dishes must be completed that are expected to serve the family and
its guests for the first three days of the new year. People desert
the outer world and disappear on the requisite trip to their home
villages and inside their homes for intimate family celebrations.
Giao Thua.
As midnight approaches, all eyes maintain a close look on clocks and
watches. The Giao Thua ritual occurs at that most sacred moment in
time. At midnight on the last day of the year, every Vietnamese
family whispers similar fervent prayers. Bells ring and drums beat
in temples. The old year gives over its mandate to the New Year. The
words Giao Thua (Giao means to give and Thua means to receive) mean
a passing on or a receiving and handing down of life, and the
recognition of that gift by the present generation. It marks the
magical transition time from one year to another. Those who practice
Buddhism will pray in the pagoda.
In the Gia Tien (family ancestor)
ritual or calling of the ancestors, invitations are extended to the
deceased relatives to visit for a few days in the world of the
living family. They are lured home and kept happy until they leave.
The head of the household lights incense and folds hands at heart
level in the position of prayer. The prayer may proceed as follows:
"In the year of…. And the date of…. Make these offerings
and invite all of our ancestors to join in eating Tet with us."
The past generations are invited to
share the family’s joys and concerns to enjoy a meal with the
living, to catch up on the family news and to lavish riches and
honors on their descendants.
"I pray to the Heavenly King, the Jade Emperor, to his
assistants and to the Earth God and the guardian spirit and to any
other spirits present. On behalf of the …family, we offer you
incense, gold and silver, fruit and flowers, alcohol and fixings for
the betel quid. We are all here to make these offerings so that the
next year will be free of disasters and harmful occurrences and that
the family will prosper. Please bless us all, young and old, with
happiness, prosperity and long life. (Here he might mention some
events of the past year such as the birth of a child, someone’s
new employment or the successful entrance of a child into a good
school). Please forgive us any transgressions we may have
unknowingly committed against you or others."
Bowing
motions, called Le, are performed at least three times and the
ceremony ends when all have prostrated themselves (or in more modern
families, folded hands and prayed) before the altar. After the
"money for the dead" and other paper gifts are burnt in
the courtyard, the family watches the ashes dance away on warm
currents of air, a sign that the dead have received their gifts. The
spiritual presence of the ancestors will be palpable during the days
of Tet.
In recent times, a new tradition has
evolved to celebrate the important evening of the new year. Those
who are not at home praying at this momentous time may be
socializing with friends. In the cities, there will be community
fireworks displays that will draw the young from their homes into
the square or park. Although firecrackers are now illegal in
Vietnam, some kind of loud noises will be made. It can be the
banging of cans, the use of electronic popping firecrackers or human
voices whooping it up. People will break off branches and twigs that
contain newly sprouted leaves to bring a sense of freshness and
vitality into their home. This follows a Buddhist tradition of
bringing fresh new leaves and "fortune bearing buds" into
the home from the pagoda.
First Morning
or Head Day is reserved for
the nuclear family, that is, the husband’s household. Immediate
family members get together and celebrate with the husband’s
parents. A younger brother, if the parents are not alive, will visit
his older sibling. Faraway sons and daughters journey to be with
their parents on this day. Children anticipate a ritual called Mung
Tuoi, or the well wishing on the achievement of one more year to one’s
life. With both arms folded in front of their chest in respect, they
thank their grandparents for their birth and upbringing.
Reciprocally, the grandparents will
impart words of advice or wisdom to their grandchildren, encouraging
them to study seriously, to live in harmony with others. The
promises made by the children are similar to New Year’s
resolutions made during the western New Year. Adults will make
silent promises to themselves to improve their lives, habits and
relationships in the coming year. The children accept small gifts,
usually crisp bills. Ideally, part of the gifts will be saved for
future "investment," and part spent for Tet amusements.
The words on the little red envelope in which the bill may be tucked
read: Respectful wishes for the New Year. When there was a king
ruling Vietnam, the mandarins of the royal court formally wished the
King and Queen, "Happiness as vast as the southern sea;
longevity as lasting as the southern mountains." Each trade and
professional guild in Vietnam has a founder or guardian spirit and
on this or one of the next several days, the craft workers will make
offerings to their guild ancestor.
The family displays the offerings of
food on the altar table for the first meal for the ancestors since
they have returned to the world of the living. The head of the
family, dressed in fresh clothes, steps respectfully in front of the
family altar and presents the offerings of food, liquor, cigarettes,
betel fixings, flowers and paper gold and silver. He lights three
sticks of incense, kneels, joins hands in front of his chest, bows
his head and prays. The names of the deceased of the family up to
the fifth generation are whispered as they are invited to
participate in the feast prepared for them.
The core of the "ancestor
calling" is the eating of a shared meal together—a form of
communion. The same ceremony will be repeated for the morning and
evening meals of the three days. Traditionally, the items considered
necessary for a traditional Tet are included in this popular saying:
Fatty pork meat, pickled onions, brightly decorated bamboo Tet
poles, firecrackers, red parallel sentences, and green banh chung.
After the ceremony, the entire family
sits down to enjoy the meal typically consisting of steamed chicken,
bamboo shoot soup, banh chung and fresh fruits. They reminisce with
their ancestors.
The
Vietnamese do not say "celebrate" when speaking of Tet;
the words "to eat" are used as in the expression,
"Will you eat Tet with your family?" or "Where will
you eat Tet this year?" It does not refer to the filling of one’s
stomach, although in the old days, when hunger was a constant
problem, Tet time was a time of plenty during which one could eat
one’s full. "To eat" here means more to be nourished by,
or to partake in the mutual communion with others, a spiritual
eating or being nourished.
There is a Vietnamese saying related
to ancestor worship: "Trees have roots; water has a source;
when drinking from the spring, one must remember the source."
Thanks are offered to those ancestors who labored long ago to dig
irrigation channels and remove mountains for this generation to have
an easier life. The present is only one link in the cycle of coming
back to the past as one looks to the future.
The second
day of Tet is for
visiting the wife’s family and close friends. Some shops have
opened and a few lottery stands are busy selling chances to people
who feel lucky. Everyone is out on the street parading around in
their new clothes.
On the third
day of Tet, the circle of
connections becomes larger and is extended to the broader community
outside the family by visits to teachers, bosses or a helpful
physician. The Vietnamese visit teachers and physicians although
long out of school and long cured of their illness. This may be the
time to have one’s fortune told to see what the coming year will
bring. These days in Vietnam, there are fortunetellers using
computer software. People are also especially interested in the
significance of their first dream of the new year.
The evening of the third day marks
the departure of the ancestors by burning votive objects such as
gold and silver, for them to take with them on their journey back to
Heaven.
Now the connections to the world
beyond the family can take place. The non-family member who will be
the first visitor is carefully chosen. The "first footer"
is an auspicious guest who is considered to be good luck for the
family. The first non-family visitor to the house brings in the year’s
luck. This figure’s karma will charm the household for the entire
year and determine the luck of the family. It is customary to invite
a respected person to visit at that time, so that this turn of luck
is not left to fate. This person, whose aura is believed capable of
promoting the fortune of the household in the following year, is
usually someone healthy, successful and prosperous. Some Vietnamese
lock their doors to all chance visitors until after the visit of the
chosen "first footer."
On the
fourth day, banks and
shops reopen. Transactions, although slower, will be conducted more
cheerfully than usual. Offices open and work resumes. Careful
attention is paid to the resumption of activities. The first outing
is the first time in the New Year that a family leaves their home. A
propitious time is chosen in advance for this outing and one
sometimes asks the advice of fortunetellers.
Formerly,
scholars initiated their new brushes and paper with a small ceremony
with the wearing of new clothes. This also requires an auspicious
hour. The theme of the proverb or poem is considered carefully and
newly purchased high-grade paper was used. Today’s students are
less formal in their initiation rites, but most enjoy a new pen and
a fresh notebook for the New Year. Everyone determines to do what he
or she can to help fate along to make the next year most successful.
In the countryside, there are rituals
to enliven the land out of its winter’s rest. The Rites of Dong
Tho activate the soil to bring it alive from its sacred rest. When
there was a king in Vietnam, he symbolically initiated the harrowing
of the first furrow of the planting season in a royal rite.
A hundred years ago, on Hang Buom
Street, a ceremony was performed right after Tet called the Beating
of the Spring Ox. This ceremony initiated the breaking open of the
agricultural land and chased away the winter cold. A ceramic image
of the ox was beaten with sticks until it broke into pieces.
Everyone scramble to grab and take home a piece of the sacred ox.
On the
fifteenth day of Tet
(called Ram Thang Gieng), the first full moon, there are ceremonies
in Buddhist temples. This is considered the most auspicious day of
the Buddhist year. "Paying homage to Buddha all year long is
not as effective as praying on the 15th day of the first
lunar month." The devout flock into pagodas, their eyes
stinging with the blue haze of incense. After prayers, shared
blessed offerings from the temple keeper are stuffed into bags
carried with them for that purpose. Over the years, this Buddhist
sacred day has transformed into a holiday of other cults.
It is also called Tet Trang Nguyen or
the feast of the first laureate. There is a legend associated with
its beginnings: the emperor once staged a banquet on the full moon
to which the most prominent scholars of the kingdom were invited.
They drank exquisite liquor and each man composed a formal poem on a
theme chosen by the emperor. On that day, many families celebrate
Tet all over again by eating banh chung.
This is also called the Little New
Year or full moon New Year and celebrated by farmers following an
indigenous practice of welcoming Spring at the first full moon.
Later, it became infused with Buddhist meanings.
The Vietnamese traditionally
celebrated Tet from the fifteenth day of the twelfth month to the
fifteenth day of the first month. |